Wednesday, May 13, 2026

May 13/2026

                          
17 FUN Facts About Hummingbirds! (that will make you hum)

By Lindsey Dahle

17 FUN Facts About Hummingbirds! (that will make you hum) - Bird Watching HQ

Seriously, these tiny birds are some of the most interesting creatures in the world. 

#1. Hummingbirds love the color red.

Hummingbirds are naturally attracted to things that are red. While it’s not entirely understood why, many people believe that hummingbirds like red flowers because they typically have the most nectar!

There are plenty of ways to add a pop of red to your garden if you want to attract hummingbirds. Flowers like the red cardinal flower & trumpet honeysuckle are 2 of their favorite red blossoms.

You can also buy a nectar feeder with red accents on the feeding ports or base. However, resist the temptation to add red dye to your hummingbird nectar! It isn’t necessary to attract hummingbirds, & it can make them sick.

#2. They eat more than just nectar.

Although hummingbirds eat lots of nectar to stay active & keep their energy up, they also need additional food sources for protein & other nutrition. There are 3 main foods that hummers eat besides nectar:

A. Insects

Hummingbirds eat insects for protein & other nutrients that nectar doesn’t provide. So the next time you have some fruit that’s getting old, instead of throwing it away, put it outside! The reason is that rotting fruit attracts lots of fruit flies, which is a favorite food of most hummingbird species!

B. Spiders

Many species of hummingbirds also eat small spiders. They will pluck these arachnids right off their webs or while hiding on a plant. If you want to provide a buffet of fresh spiders for your local birds, my recommendation is to fill your yard with native flowers, shrubs, & trees! In addition, many hummer species use spider silk to build their nests!

C. Tree Sap

Believe it or not, many hummingbird species rely greatly on sugary tree sap at certain times of the year. When hummingbirds migrate north, they arrive before many flowers have started to bloom, which creates a big problem. Hummingbirds need sugar constantly to support their high-energy lifestyle.

To ensure they have adequate nutrition, hummingbirds will time their northward migration to follow sapsuckers. These woodpeckers drill large holes into trees to release their sap. Once the woodpeckers drill a well into a tree, hummingbirds follow to drink the sugary sap!

The coolest fact about hummingbirds eating sap is that they prefer maple tree sap. Of course, pancake-loving humans have this in common with hummingbirds!

#3. Hummingbirds are tiny!

2 of the most common hummingbirds in North America are the Ruby-Throated Hummingbird & Rufous Hummingbird. They measure just 2.8-3.5 inches (7-9 cm) long! Despite their small size, they migrate enormous distances each year & pollinate thousands of flowers along their route.

Even among other birds, which are some of the lightest animals for their size, hummingbirds are incredibly lightweight. Fully grown Ruby-Throated & Rufous Hummingbirds only weigh about 3 grams, which is the same as a single penny!

#4. Their nests are impossibly small.

These tiny birds make equally tiny nests. Their size varies slightly from species to species, but on average nests are only 1-2 inches wide & an inch deep!

Although the size of their nests is amazing, I think the coolest fact about hummingbird nests is how they’re made.

Like most other birds, hummingbirds start with a base of leaves, twigs, & grasses. But once the base is constructed, the rest of the nest is made from spiderweb silk!

Hummingbirds take the silk from webs & weave it into a soft, springy nest for their young. While they’re collecting the silk, they sometimes even pluck a fruit fly from the web for a snack!

After the nest is created, hummingbirds lay eggs that are 0.5-0.6 in (1.2-1.5 cm), about the size of a small jellybean. Ruby-throats lay 1 to 3 eggs at a time, & as you can imagine, the eggs completely fill the inside of the nest!

#5. Hummingbirds are aggressive & territorial.

If you have a particularly territorial hummer, you may need to hang more than one feeder!

Despite their small size (or perhaps because of it), hummingbirds are one of the most territorial backyard birds. It’s not uncommon to see fights between hummingbirds near the feeders in your backyard. Hummingbirds will even dive-bomb & zip toward much larger birds to let them know who’s boss!

The most aggressive behavior happens in spring when male hummingbirds are claiming new territory to breed. Males claim territory by discouraging other birds from staying too long, which means they will target intruders at feeders & resting spots.

#6. They aren’t able to walk or hop.

Although they use their legs to perch while they rest & drink nectar, hummingbirds don’t walk or hop like most birds.

They can scoot sideways but prefer to hover or fly to get around.

Even though they can’t walk, their legs are small for a very good reason. Their small limbs help hummingbirds fly faster by making them more aerodynamic and reducing the amount of energy they use while flying.

#7. Hummingbirds eat a ton of food!

Hummingbirds need to consume enormous amounts to maintain their energy levels.

They eat every 15-20 minutes & consume half their body weight in nectar & insects each day! However, hummingbirds can eat much more than that during migration & times of heavy travel. Some estimates show hummingbirds can eat up to 8 TIMES their body weight in a single day!

To help sustain their energy requirements, hummingbirds can visit up to 2,000 flowers per day, searching for nectar. All that traveling from flower to flower is one of the main reasons hummingbirds are such important pollinators.

#8. Hummingbird flocks have fun names.

One of my favorite facts about hummingbirds is the different names people call their flocks. Some of these include a “bouquet”, a “glittering”, a “hover”, or my personal favorite, a “shimmer”. I think this last name describes the beautiful iridescence of their feathers perfectly!

Although hummingbirds are solitary migrators, they will visit nectar feeders in large flocks. This hummingbird feeding station in California is a great example!

#9. Hummingbirds are FAST!

You might think that because hummingbirds are so tiny, they aren’t powerful. But the undeniable fact about hummingbirds is that they are athletic powerhouses!

The fastest species, Anna’s Hummingbird, can fly up to 50 mph (80 kph) & reach diving speeds of 61mph (98 kph). Imagine something the size of a ping pong ball hurtling past you at highway speed, all under its own power. It’s amazing to think about!

And it’s not just their speed that makes hummingbirds impressive. They flap their wings an incredible 80 times per second, completely blurring their wings to the human eye. When they hover in the air, it can sometimes look like they don’t have wings at all!

#10. Hummingbird migrations are unbelievable feats.

Hummingbirds are some of the toughest travelers around! Especially when you consider how SMALL they are.

The Rufous hummingbird makes the longest migratory trip, traveling up to 3,900 miles (6,276 km) from Mexico to Washington State! If we look at that distance from the hummingbird’s perspective, it’s about 78.4 MILLION body lengths! 

This distance is even more astounding when you consider that Rufous hummingbirds complete the journey in only 3 short months. And then, they repeat it only a couple of months later! Most Rufous hummingbirds begin migrating south in August, after arriving at their summer home in May.

#11. Hummingbirds benefit from shade-grown coffee!

Hummingbirds, like many migratory birds, depend on tropical forests in Central America for survival during the winter months. Unfortunately, these critical habitats are increasingly threatened by deforestation, often driven by agricultural practices such as sun-grown coffee farming, which replaces forests with open plantations.

Shade-grown coffee, on the other hand, is cultivated beneath a canopy of native trees, preserving the layered structure of the forest & maintaining vital ecosystems. This traditional method of farming allows hummingbirds & other wildlife to find food, shelter, & safe resting places.

#12. They go dormant in cold weather to survive.

Torpor is a state of near-hibernation that hummingbirds can enter during cold weather. They slow their heart rate & breathing to conserve energy & can appear to be deeply asleep or even dead while they’re in this state.

Hummingbirds use this survival mechanism during migration when unseasonably cool nights make for harsh conditions. Their body temperature, which normally hovers around 102-104 degrees F (40 degrees C), can drop to 50 degrees F (10 degrees C). As a result, their heart rate drops, & they become incredibly still.

The most unsettling part of torpor is that hummingbirds in this state tend to hang upside down! It can look like the hummingbird has died, which is scary for any bird lover. If you notice a hummingbird hanging upside down, wait for the weather to warm up & see if the hummingbird starts to become active again. 

#13. Hummingbirds can fly backward.

Without a doubt, the coolest fact about hummingbirds is that they can fly backward!

Their powerful wings allow them to hover, change direction, & stop in midair in the blink of an eye. If you have hummingbirds in your yard, you’ve probably seen them doing acrobatic tricks.

#14. Hummingbirds love moving water.

One strategy to get more hummingbirds to visit your yard is to give them a MOVING water source. Although bird baths are fantastic, most hummingbirds will ignore them unless a bubbler or mister is agitating the water.

Having a fountain is a great way to get the attention of hummingbirds. Many decorative outdoor fountains are available, which will look great in your flower garden.

Or you can purchase an inexpensive solar fountain that should fit inside an existing birdbath. The best part about a solar fountain is you won’t have any annoying cords to deal with.

Hummingbirds LOVE flying through mist. The light spray is perfect for their tiny bodies. Not to mention, having a mister around is great for human enjoyment too! 

Getting water movement can be as simple as having a dripper. And it’s easy to make your own by filling a used milk jug with water & creating a tiny hole at the bottom. Then, hang the jug over a plant so the water will slowly drip out & soak the leaves, leaving an excellent place for hummingbirds to get a drink. You can also purchase a dripper, which are made for pet reptiles!

#15. Hummingbirds don’t have a sense of smell.

Although we associate them with flowers & sweet nectar, hummingbirds don’t have any sense of smell at all. Instead, they primarily use their eyesight to find their way to food & shelter.

This is why it’s so effective to use the color red & sparkling, bubbling water to attract hummingbirds. When they see something they like, they can’t help but investigate!

#16. They have excellent eyesight!

One of the most important facts about hummingbirds is their incredible eyesight! Thinking about how they use their vision will help you decide the best way to attract hummingbirds to your yard.

If a hummingbird wants a drink of water, it will look for sparkly bubbles or a fine mist & head straight for it. A bright flower garden or fiery red feeding port will draw their attention if it’s time for a meal. Make sure to include these eye-catching elements to see the most hummingbirds!

In addition to seeing well, hummingbirds can see colors humans can’t see at all! It’s hard to imagine colors besides the ones we can see, but hummingbirds can perceive colors outside our color spectrum. Their world is truly technicolor!

#17. Hummingbirds ONLY live in the western hemisphere!

An incredible fact about hummingbirds is just how many species there are – over 330! And every single one lives in the western hemisphere, either in North, South, or Central America.

What’s more, most of these species will never travel more than 700 miles from the equator, preferring to stay in the warmest part of the globe.

Only 8 species of hummingbird are commonly seen in the United States. The rest spend all their time closer to the equator, particularly in Central & South America.

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Wednesday, May 6, 2026

May 6/2026

                           

Tiger Salamander Care Sheet

By Maria Zayas, DVM

Published Dec. 20/2023


Tiger Salamander Species Overview

Salamanders are lizard-like amphibians. Despite their appearance, salamanders are amphibians, not reptiles. However, like reptiles, amphibians are ectothermic (or “cold-blooded”) animals that rely on external heat sources to regulate their body temperature. 

The largest land-dwelling salamander in the world is the tiger salamander. These salamanders build burrows in marshes, woodlands, & meadows throughout North America. 

Tiger salamanders are not a single species; rather, they are a collection of closely related subspecies with varying patterns & colors. Usually, young salamanders begin life with a spotted pattern, which changes as they grow into adulthood. 

Tiger salamanders’ bodies are adapted to living underground—they’re stout with small eyes & strong legs for digging & burrowing.  

Newly homed tiger salamanders may bury themselves in their substrate. Once they realize food is at the surface, they will relax & will eventually become more docile. 

When bred in captivity, tiger salamanders are robust, social amphibians that make excellent pets. 

Compared to females, male salamanders are thinner, have flatter tails, & a more prominent vent. 

Tiger Salamander Characteristics 

Difficulty of Care          Beginner 


Average Lifespan          Up to 15–25 years with proper care, depending on species 


Average Adult Size        11+ inches long


Diet                                Carnivore 

Minimum Habitat Size  15-gallon tank for one adult 

Tiger Salamander Supply Checklist

To keep a tiger salamander happy & healthy, pet parents should have these basic supplies on hand: 

- Appropriately sized habitat 

- Salamander or newt food 

- Substrate 

- Sphagnum moss 

- Water & food dishes 

- Hideaway place 

- Climbing decor 

- Plants 

- Water filter 

- UVB lighting & fixture 

- Multivitamin supplement 

- Calcium supplement with vitamin D 

- Cricket keeper 

- Cricket food 

- Cricket quencher 

- Live insects 

- Thermometers 

- Thermostat 

- Humidity gauge 

- Mister 

Tiger Salamander Habitat

Choosing the Right Enclosure 

The minimum recommended habitat size for a salamander varies, depending on species & the number of animals in the enclosure: 

A salamander needs at least a 15-gallon glass, acrylic, or plastic tank for their habitat. 

If choosing to house 2 salamanders, you’ll need at least a 20-gallon tank. 

All habitats should be well-ventilated & secured with a screened lid to prevent the animal from escaping. They should also be longer than they are tall to give amphibians enough room to explore.   

With proper care, salamanders reach their adult size within a year. Always provide the largest habitat possible. Be sure to increase the enclosure’s size as the animal grows. 

Habitat Mates 

Several tiger salamanders can be housed together in the same habitat if the enclosure is large enough & the animals are not territorial.  

Salamanders must be monitored for aggressive behavior. If 2 animals fight, separate them. Never keep different species of amphibians in the same habitat (i.e., do not keep tiger salamanders in the same habitat as fire bellied newts). 

Temperature & Heat 

Tiger salamanders need a tank temperature from 60 F to 75 F. Do not allow the enclosure’s temperature to go above 78 F—higher temperatures can lead to stress & illness.  

Most pet salamanders will not need a supplemental heat source if the habitat’s temperature is kept above 60 F. Keep the habitat out of direct sunlight, which can cause temperature fluctuations & encourage algae growth. Use a thermometer to monitor the habitat’s temperature.

Lighting 

Salamanders should get 10–12 hours of light exposure daily with the help of a low-watt incandescent bulb. This will imitate natural sunlight & help the animal establish a day/night cycle. Make sure that the bulb does not produce a lot of heat & raise the habitat’s temperature outside of the ideal range (60–75 F). 

Some light bulbs provide not only light to the tank but also heat &/or ultraviolet (UV) light. Pet parents should check the light sources to be clear of their function in the tank. 

Remember: Salamanders must have access to lots of hiding places so they can escape the light or heat when needed. 

White lights should not be left on continuously, as they will disrupt the salamanders sleep cycle & negatively affect its overall health. At night, turn off lights inside the enclosure.

UV Light 

Salamanders need exposure to ultraviolet (UV) light to produce vitamin D in their skin so they can absorb dietary calcium, which is essential to bone health. Without adequate UV exposure, they can develop metabolic bone disease. 

Use a low-level (2.0 or 5.0) UVB bulb to provide the salamander with 10–12 hours of UVB light daily. 

Avoid bulbs that emit higher levels of UVB light; they can damage amphibians' eyes & skin. 

Replace bulbs every 6 months (even if they still emit light) as their potency wanes over time. 

A day/night timer can make it easier to maintain a consistent day & night cycle. 

Humidity 

Humidity levels should be maintained at 70% & monitored with a hygrometer (humidity gauge). To maintain humidity levels, pet parents should mist the habitat’s substrate with dechlorinated water every day. The substrate should be moist but not soggy. If the substrate becomes too wet, increase ventilation in the habitat. 

At all times, salamanders should have a shallow bowl of dechlorinated water in their habitat that’s wide enough for them to soak in. Water bowls should be cleaned, disinfected, & refilled daily. 

Substrate & Tank Setup 

Adult salamanders can be housed in a terrestrial terrarium. 

The bottom of a salamander’s tank should be lined with at least 3–4 inches of substrate to allow for burrowing. Salamanders prefer dampened sphagnum moss or a mulch-like substrate, like coconut husk fiber or cypress mulch. 

Pet parents should create a moisture gradient by keeping the substrate on one side of the enclosure moist while the substrate on the other side is drier. That way, the salamander can choose the side it prefers. The substrate should be moist but not soggy. If the substrate becomes too wet, increase ventilation in the habitat. 

Do not use gravel or small pieces of bark that are small enough to be swallowed by a salamander; they can cause a life-threatening gastrointestinal tract obstruction if ingested.  

Avoid reptile carpet & other artificial turf, as they’re too rough & will damage a salamander’s sensitive skin. 

Decor & Accessories 

Salamanders like to burrow under driftwood, cork, or moss, & hide under plants or moss. However, they may also dig under & uproot live plants.  

Pet Salamander Cleaning & Maintenance

The habitat needs to be cleaned thoroughly at least once a week. 

  1. Using powder-free latex gloves moistened with dechlorinated water, move the amphibian to a secure habitat. Be sure to handle the animal gently to avoid harming its sensitive skin. 

  1. Remove any old substrate, decor, & accessories from the habitat.  

  1. Scrub the empty tank & any furnishings with an amphibian-safe habitat cleaner or 3% bleach solution. The bleach solution should stay on the habitat for at least 10 minutes to ensure that the surfaces are properly disinfected. If using a commercial habitat cleaner, follow the manufacturer's instructions.

  2. Rinse the habitat & accessories thoroughly with dechlorinated water, making sure to remove any trace amounts or residual smells left by the cleaning agent or bleach solution.  

    1. Allow the habitat & its contents to dry completely before placing new substrate  clean accessories into the habitat. 

    1. Return the amphibian to the clean habitat. Always be sure to wash your hands thoroughly after handing an amphibian or its habitat’s contents. 

      Salamander Diet & Nutrition

      Salamanders should be offered a variety of gut-loaded insects & worms as a base diet. These amphibians can also be fed live or frozen/thawed bloodworms, brine shrimp, & tubifex worms, plus supplemental amounts of dry food formulated for salamanders/newts.  

      Large salamanders can also be occasionally fed frozen/thawed pinkie or fuzzy mice as a treat. 

      Feeding Guidelines 

      - Juvenile salamanders need to be fed every one to 2 days & adult salamanders need to be fed 2 to 3 times a week at nighttime. 

      - Tiger salamanders are prone to obesity, so they should only be fed high-fat foods (like waxworms) in limited amounts.  A well-balanced & nutritious diet for a salamander consists of a base diet of gut-loaded (recently fed) insects & worms, including:

      Crickets

      Earthworms

      Beetles

      Roaches

      Superworms

      Waxworms

      Silkworms

      Hornworms

      Phoenix worms

      White worms

      Feed a variety of insects rather than the same ones every day. As with humans, feeding amphibians the same food every day can cause malnutrition. 

      Avoid feeding mealworms, as they have a hard exoskeleton that’s difficult to digest. 

      Bloodworms, brine shrimp, & tubifex worms (frozen/thawed or live) may be offered in the water. 

      Some large salamander species, including tiger salamanders, can also eat a frozen/thawed “pinkie” or “fuzzy” mouse as an occasional treat. 

      Live rodents should not be fed to salamanders. While still alive, rodents can become aggressive & leave severe wounds that lead to life-threatening infections. 

      Frozen rodents should never be microwaved, as this can leave “hot spots” that can burn a salamander's mouth & tongue. 

Commercially available dry food formulated for salamanders should also be used. This dry food should only be used to supplement a newt/salamander’s diet. 

Clean, dechlorinated water should always be available & replaced daily. Food & water dishes should be cleaned & disinfected daily. 

Since salamanders absorb water through their skin to stay hydrated, their water dishes should be large & shallow enough to allow them to soak in them.  

Do not use distilled water, which doesn’t include any of the vitamins, salts, or minerals that amphibians need to stay hydrated. 

Salamander Supplements 
Before feeding, pet parents should dust their salamander’s insects with a powdered vitamin supplement. Salamanders need a calcium supplement with vitamin D & a multivitamin/mineral powder designed for amphibians. 

To dust insects, place them in a bag or disposable plastic container along with a powdered supplement. Then, shake the bag lightly until the insects are coated evenly in powder. 

How To Gut-Load Insects 
Gut-loaded diets are fortified with vitamins & minerals to help provide optimal nutrition to the amphibians that feed on them. To gut-load prey, place insects in a container with a gut-loading diet that the bugs can gorge on.

Insects should be gut-loaded for at least 24–72 hours before being dusted with a vitamin supplement & fed to a salamander or newt. 
Salamander Grooming & Care
Handling
Salamanders should only be handled when necessary. Pet parents should always use powder-free latex gloves moistened with dechlorinated water when handling an amphibian. Human skin has bacteria & oils that amphibians can absorb through their sensitive & porous skin, leading to infection & illness. 

All amphibians have glands in their skin that can secrete toxins. Never let a salamander’s secretions contact your eyes, mouth, or open wounds. 

A fine-mesh net can be used to move or block amphibians during routine habitat maintenance. 

Shedding
Healthy growing salamanders will shed their skin every few days or weeks. Most salamanders will eat their dead skin after shedding it to absorb nutrients & to avoid being noticed by predators. 

Salamander Veterinary Care
Annual Care
Salamanders should be seen by a veterinarian once annually. They can be transported using an appropriately sized Tupperware container with airholes & a moistened surface such as wet papers towels on the bottom. It is recommended to take pictures of their enclosure, diet, heaters, lights (including exact specifications from the packaging), so your veterinarian can assess their care as part of the exam.

Signs of a Healthy Salamander
Clean, clear eyes

Intact skin with no ulcerations or stuck shed

Clean, clear nostrils

Good appetite & willingness to hunt

Bright, alert personality

Clean vent

No swellings or bumps

Appropriate basking behavior (newts)

Good body condition score/weight

When to Call a Vet
Eyes are swollen, sunken, stuck shut, or have discharge

Pink ulcerations or other lesions are seen on the skin, especially the nose

Refusing food

Failing to bask (newts)

Lethargy

Discharge around vent

Lumps or bumps

Cannot ambulate or posture appropriately

Belly appears sunken

Shed is stuck, especially around the toes, particularly if any are swollen

Common Illnesses in Salamanders

Metabolic bone disease

Hypovitaminosis A

Gas bubble disease

Dysecdysis—stuck shed, especially on the toes

Intestinal parasites

Skin infections

Trauma

Salamander FAQs

Can a salamander be a pet?
Yes they can! They’re especially great pets for people who do not have the time to commit to a more hands-on pet.

Is it OK to touch a salamander?
Touch a salamander as little as possible, preferably with medical gloves when you do. They don’t particularly enjoy being handled, you can harm them if your hands aren’t perfectly clean, & many species can be poisonous & aren’t safe to touch with bare hands.

Can salamanders be friendly?
Salamanders are friendly, but not in the way a golden retriever would be. They’re calm, non-aggressive pets who prefer to be left to do things on their own.


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Wednesday, April 29, 2026

April 29/2026

                               
When Is a Cat Considered a Senior? What To Expect When Your Cat’s Aging

By Ken Lambrecht

3/27/2026

As cats live longer—often 13–17 years or more—understanding how aging affects their health is essential. Knowing when your cat becomes a senior & recognizing early signs of aging can help you support their comfort, health, & quality of life.

When Does a Cat Become a Senior?

The average cat lifespan is 13–17 years, though many can live to be 20 years old or more. With such a long life, proper care is vital for each of a cat’s life stage—especially when they enter their senior years.

Cats are considered seniors after they turn 10 years old, according to the American Association of Feline Practitioners (AAFP).

But many veterinarians may begin treating cats as seniors at 7 years old, meaning wellness exams increase from yearly to every 6 months. Those who work closely with cats are aware of how subtle the signs of illness in cats are & how well cats can hide their pain.

What Are The Signs of Aging in Cats?

Common signs that your cat is getting older include:

Physical Signs

Weight loss or weight gain

Trouble jumping, decreased mobility

Trouble eating

Dental disease

Decreased vision, especially at night

Decreased hearing

Behavioral Signs

Sleeping more & being less active

Decreased self-grooming

Signs of confusion, such as wandering around the house

Accidents in the house or trouble making it to the litter box

Increased hiding

Senior Cat Health Problems

Some of the common health conditions senior cats develop include:

Dental disease: Dental disease affects over 80% of cats over 5 years old. Daily at-home toothbrushing with a small toothbrush & enzymatic cat toothpaste will prevent buildup on your cat's teeth. Annual dental cleanings will also help keep your kitty’s teeth healthy.

Osteoarthritis: Arthritis in cats is a degenerative joint disease that affects over 90% of cats 10 years of age & older.

Kidney disease: Kidney disease in cats is found in over 20% of all cats. Symptoms of kidney disease in cats can be as subtle as increased drinking or larger clumps of urine in the cat litter box, inappetence, or slight weight loss.

Hyperthyroidism: Weight loss, increased appetite, & vocalization are hallmarks of hyperthyroidism in cats.

Inflammatory bowel disease: Vomiting, diarrhea, & weight loss are the most typical symptoms of IBD in cats. It’s a very common middle-age & senior cat problem.

Diabetes: This is a common disease of older cats, especially those that are overweight. Weight management is important for preventing diabetes.

Cancer: Intestinal, mammary, & oral cancers are all more common in senior cats.

Cognitive dysfunction syndrome: 80% of cats have cognitive dysfunction at 15 years of age & older. Signs of dementia in cats include disorientation, vocalizing (especially at night), having accidents in the house, hiding, poor grooming, & sleeping more than usual.

Caring for a Senior Cat

Keeping your senior cat healthy requires regular checkups with your veterinarian & proper at-home care.

Meet Your Cat’s Needs

Senior cats often benefit from a little extra TLC.  Sometimes they forget to eat & drink or find it to difficult to navigate up & down stairs to find their bowls. Be sure your aging fur baby has easy access to fresh food & water daily.

Cats also love warm places, & senior cats especially will seek out a warm spot. Consider getting your cat a heated cat bed. Additionally, your senior may benefit from some extra helping grooming with weekly brushing. 

Finally, keeping a litter box on every floor is helpful for senior cats who may forget where the box is or have mobility issues preventing them from going up & down stairs to get it to easily. A low, large litter pan can be helpful for their joints, too.

Keep Up With Regular Vet Visits

A complete physical exam is recommended every 6 months for all cats over 7 years old. If that seems like a lot, consider that biannual vet visits would be the equivalent of a human seeing their doctor every 3 to 4 years. Because cats are notorious for hiding their diseases, exams & wellness testing are the cornerstones of keeping a senior cat healthy.

During a basic wellness exam for older cats, blood work will likely be recommended by your veterinarian. This often includes a thyroid level check, a complete blood count, chemistry panel, urinalysis, & heartworm, FeLV, & FIV screening.

Routine blood pressure checks are typically advised for all cats over 10 years of age & in cats with diseases commonly associated with hypertension (high blood pressure) such as kidney disease, diabetes, & hyperthyroidism. Additionally, abdominal ultrasound or chest or abdominal radiographs may be recommended to help screen for disease.

Observe Your Senior Cat Closely

Any physical or behavioral change in your cat can mean something is going on with their health. It’s important to take note of any changes & contact your veterinarian for guidance.

Regular weigh-ins at home can be helpful for keeping tabs on your senior cat’s health. Buy a good quality scale, like the Brecknell MS15 Digital Pet Scale to catch sudden weight loss early & easily. A scale that weighs accurately to an ounce or less is best.

Best Food for Senior Cats

Your cat’s annual blood work is a great way for veterinarians to determine if a change in nutrition is needed for your senior cat. Protein level & phosphorous levels are 2 of the most critical analyses that need to be considered.

Senior cats should be fed a senior-specific diet to meet their needs. Most veterinarians would recommend making the transition to a senior diet around 7 years of age.

The choice between over-the-counter diets versus prescription diets & dry kibble versus canned food will be based on a lot of factors, including your specific cat’s health & weight. Check with your vet about the best food for your senior cat.

In short, all of these things can help to create a cat-friendly care plan, diet, & home environment for senior cats. With this guide, you can catch problems early so your kitty will truly enjoy those golden years!

Cherished Cat Pics:                                     Puddytat

 

Minette

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Wednesday, April 22, 2026

April 22/2026

                            

Your Cat Has A Cute Reason For Stealing Your Pillow At Night

By Sheri Radford  

8/2/2025

Widely acknowledged as the superstars of the internet, cats are accustomed to having feline-obsessed netizens analyze everything from why cats sleep with their eyes half shut to subtle ways cats say "I miss you." One question cat owners ponder is why their feline companions so often insist on sharing — & sometimes even hogging — their pillow at night.

The sweetest explanation for this adorable behavior is that your cat loves you & wants to be as close to you as possible. By sharing your pillow all night long, your cat can get 8 or so hours of quality snuggle time with you. As a bonus, your head doesn't tend to move around much while you sleep. For a cat, a sleeping human's flailing arms or restless legs can make the other areas of the bed both riskier & less tranquil. The pillow is a safe zone that's also invitingly soft & comfortable.

Other reasons your cat likes to share your pillow

Cats are drawn to warm, cozy spots. It doesn't get much warmer or cozier than a soft pillow your cat can sink into and drift off to sleep on. Your natural body heat only adds to the appeal. Sharing your pillow might also be a way for your cat to mark its territory, especially if there are other pets in the household.

Any animal is inherently vulnerable when asleep. By cuddling up to you & falling asleep on your pillow, your cat is showing trust in you & your ability to provide protection if necessary throughout the night. As both predator & prey animals, cats have a mix of seemingly contradictory natural instincts. If your cat sleeps on your pillow facing away from you, that could indicate your cat's desire to protect you from potential nighttime threats by keeping its eye pointed at any potential causes of harm.

If your cat often sleeps on your pillow when you're not around, it might be a sign that your cat is seeking comfort from your scent. Your cat could also be trying to strengthen the feline-human bond by intermingling your 2 scents.

Reasons not to share your bed with your cat

Despite the undeniable appeal of a dozing kitty — as evidenced by these pics of orange cats sleeping in their favorite spots — there are several reasons to consider keeping cats off your pillow or even out of the bedroom entirely. According to a 2018 study published in Allergy, Asthma & Immunology Research, up to 20% of humans are allergic to cats &/or dogs. For anyone with even a mild allergy, keeping pet allergens off your pillow is a sensible idea. Allergy medication simply might not be up to the challenge if you spend every sleeping moment inhaling cat dander.

Though much evidence exists to suggest that animals help us rest better when they sleep with us, some pet owners find that sharing a bed with their beloved animal leads to interrupted sleep. Kittens, in particular, might chew on your hair, pounce on your toes, or climb all over you in the middle of the night, interrupting your slumber. Even older cats can cause problems, especially if they wake you up far too early in the morning & start meowing for breakfast.

Issues of cleanliness are also worth considering. Cats are naturally fastidious creatures, but they still can track kitty litter onto your pillow. And it's not unheard of for a cat to dump a rodent carcass onto a pillow, like a scene straight out of a "Godfather" movie.

Read More: https://www.cuteness.com/1928207/cat-cute-reason-stealing-pillow-at-night/

Cherished Cat Pics:                             Sage 

 
Sheldon
Katniss
Weekly Cat Chuckle:

Slava Ukraine!



 


Wednesday, April 15, 2026

April 15/2026

                        

13 Tips for Keeping Your Cat Exercised & Mentally Stimulated

By Krista Seraydar, DVM. Reviewed by Sandra C. Mitchell, DVM, DABVP

3/ 13/ 2024

Even though cats sleep much of the day, exercising is important to their wellbeing. When cats are exercising, they’re helping maintain a healthy weight & also getting mental stimulation to keep them emotionally & behaviorally healthy.

Here are some tips on how to exercise & mentally stimulate your cats so you can maximize your play sessions.

1. Schedule Exercise for Cats When They Are Most Active

Cats are not nocturnal—they’re crepuscular, meaning they’re most active at dawn & dusk. Scheduling play around these times may help keep them more interested. You can also schedule playtime around their meals so you can incorporate food into their daily enrichment.

2. Keep Play Sessions Short

While dogs are endurance animals, cats are not. So, play sessions with your cat should only be about 10–15 minutes long. Make time for 2 to 3 daily play sessions for older cats to up to 10 sessions for kittens & younger cats.

3. Know Your Cat’s Signals for Not Wanting to Play

Your cat will let you know if they are (or aren’t!) interested in playing. A bored cat will walk away or show no interest in toys.

An interested kitty will be eager to participate, bat around cat toys, chase a laser pointer, & respond positively to interaction with you (no biting/scratching/hissing, forward-facing ears, etc.).

If your cat begins panting or breathing too heavily, let them rest before resuming play. Remember: Playtime is meant to be fun for cats!

4. Don’t Use Your Hands as Toys

It’s very important to avoid using your hands when playing with cats—& kittens especially. This can lead to play aggression & lots of scratches. Instead, engage your cat with toys that are appropriate for them to scratch & bite.

5. Take Your Cat Outside (Safely!)

Just like dogs, some indoor cats will enjoy stimulating walks outside. If you want to try walking your cat, it’s important to get a harness your cat can’t wriggle out of, & test it out in your home before heading outside. There are even harnesses made specifically for walking cats.

Make sure your cat is microchipped & that your contact info is up to date in the database. It also helps to have a tag with your contact info on their harness in case they happen to get away.

You can also create a catio, an enclosed & stimulating outdoor environment. This gives your cat an opportunity to explore the outdoors while remaining active &—most importantly—safe.

Before you take them outside, make sure your cat is current on flea & tick prevention.

6. Train Your Cat To Do Tricks

Training your cat to sit, high-5, or even meow using clicker training can be a great bonding experience & can provide enrichment for both your kitty & you.

7. Chase Laser Pointers

Using a laser pointer is a great way to get your cat moving. But be sure to end every laser pointer session by giving your cat a toy they can actually get their paws on! This will allow them to feel as though they have caught their prey & keep them from becoming frustrated.

8. Set Out Cat Interactive Toys

Puzzle toys keep your cat active & provide positive reinforcement at the same time. Using puzzle toys to dole out pieces of dry food can also help slow down your cat’s eating while keeping them engaged.

Electronic toys, like the SmartyKat Hidden Hijinks Concealed Motion Teaser Wand, are also fun for cats & they provide a high-energy playtime. They can be very helpful in keeping cats entertained, but they should be interspersed with other kinds of interactive play.

9. Hide Treats, Food, & Toys

Just like puzzle toys, hiding treats, food, & toys can help cats feel like they’re hunting for their food as they would in the wild. Be sure to constantly switch out old cat toys for new ones to keep them interested!

10. Play With Teaser & Wand Toys

Wand toys (also called teasers or fishing-pole toys) allow for interactive play. These toys let your cat feel like they’re chasing & pouncing on prey while keeping their claws a safe distance from your hands.

Keep your wand toy out of your cat’s reach whenever you’re not engaging in active play. Wands are toys that require supervision to prevent accidents, like string ingestion.

11. Blow Catnip Bubbles

Some cats enjoy chasing & popping bubbles. There are bubbles that are infused with catnip to keep kitties even more intrigued.

12. Offer Vertical Spaces

Cats love to watch the world from above; this gives them a safer vantage point for hunting in the wild. Providing vertical spaces such as window shelves & perches not only gives them an ideal spot to observe from, but it can encourage them to jump & climb.

Cat trees can also provide elevated rest or play areas for your kitty. Many cat trees also have scratching posts that encourage healthy scratching behaviors.

13. Try Cat Exercise Wheels

A cat wheel, like the PawHut Cat Exercise Wheel, is basically a much larger version of a hamster wheel, offering an excellent way for your feline friend to get in some cardio.

https://www.petmd.com/cat/general-health/tips-for-keeping-your-cat-exercised-and-mentally-stimulated

Cherished Cat Pics:                             

                                                               Lola

                                                                   Max

Lola, Max, & Sage

Weekly Cat Chuckle:

Slava Ukraine!!!