June 10/2026

                            

6 Fun Facts About Puffer Fish

By Janelle Leeson. Reviewed by Maria Zayas, DVM

2/ 21/ 2024

Puffer fish are well-known for their ability to puff themselves up. This defense tactic involves sucking water into their stomach, rendering them too large for predators to eat. Yet, the intrigue surrounding puffer fish goes far beyond their inflating skills.

We took a deep dive with expert fish curators to explore 6 fun facts about puffer fish.

1. There Are Over 190 Different Species of Puffer Fish 

Most puffer fish species are round in shape, but a few are more box-like, says Lizeth Webster, curator of fish & invertebrates at the Long Island Aquarium. If you have a saltwater aquarium, there are plenty of puffer fish species to choose from because most puffers thrive in saltwater. In comparison, there are less than 30 species of freshwater puffer fish.

2. Puffer Fish Don’t Have Scales … or Spines

Puffers are relatives of the spiny porcupinefish. However, where the 2 species differ is that porcupine fish are covered in spines.

“Puffers in fact do not have spines [or scales] on their bodies,” says Webster. “They have rough, textured flesh.” When it comes down to it, though, the spines of porcupine fish & the rough skin of puffers serve as good protection.

3. Puffer Fish Have Teeth

Puffer fish have 2 upper teeth & 2 lower teeth, both sets fused together to form a pointed beak-like structure. But they’re no ordinary teeth—puffer fish teeth form an overbite & continuously grow without routine care.

“To keep their teeth healthy & prevent them from overgrowing, puffers & porcupine fish chew on hard structures like clam shells or shellfish that naturally trim their teeth,” explains Webster. When they’re not fed a diet that includes hard substrates, a puffer fish’s teeth eventually become too large, which prevents them from properly opening their mouths.

4. Puffer Fish Have Strong Jaws

Wild puffer fish eat crustaceans & bivalves, such as crabs, shrimp, & mollusks. In home tanks, puffers are commonly fed prepared diets like fish meal-based pellets.

While convenient, a diet of pellets alone can lead to tooth & lead them to gnaw on aquarium decor. Therefore, Webster recommends adding frozen shrimp & clams or snails to your puffer’s diet. 

Just as intriguing as what puffer fish eat is how they eat it. “Many people who keep large puffers at home often hand-feed them,” says Nathan Farnau, curator of fishes & invertebrates at the Georgia Aquarium. Strong jaws allow puffers to open shells & other hard foods with gusto.

You can also feed your puffer fish live food to give them something to chase. They’re not the fastest swimmers, but they’re agile. Just be sure to keep live food in a separate tank for quarantine before feeding them to your puffer fish.

5. Puffer Fish Are Poisonous

Puffer fish are indeed poisonous & some even pose a lethal threat if eaten or touched.

All puffer fish have a chemical called tetrodotoxin in their liver, sex organs, & skin, although some species of puffers are more toxic than others. According to the Centers for Disease Control & Prevention (CDC), tetrodotoxin is an “extremely potent poison” that causes paralysis of the muscles. Webster says the northern puffer fish is among the few species with minimal levels of tetrodotoxin.

In general, handling most fish is not recommended because it can stress them out & disrupt their immune system. However, if you must handle your puffer fish, “always wear latex gloves & use a hard container that can accommodate a puffed-up fish,” says Webster. Never ingest aquarium water & ensure other pets can't access it.

6. Puffer Fish Require an Experienced Pet Parent

Puffer fish may not be the ideal fish for beginner aquarists. Farnau describes puffer fish as “very high maintenance.” Here are some important care considerations to keep in mind before bringing a puffer fish home:

They require a specially tailored habitat. Puffers do best in an interactive habitat with caves, arches, & plenty of sturdy structures they can chomp on. Webster says that while coral tanks are nice to look at, puffer fish will simply decimate the structures.

You might need a bigger aquarium than you think. Puffer fish come in a surprising range of sizes. There are minuscule 1-inch cuties like the pea puffer, which require a 20-gallon aquarium for exploration. Then, there are the giants like the Mbu puffer, which can exceed a whopping 2 feet in length & require much larger tanks. Thoroughly research the mature size of your ideal puffer fish species & purchase an appropriately sized tank for their adult size; these fish continue growing even if the tank is too small.

You’ll need a top-notch aquarium filter. Puffers are notoriously messy eaters. It’s recommended to remove any uneaten bits of food after mealtime to help keep the water clean. Even with the best filtration system, expect to clean your filter often & change your puffer’s water frequently.

Always commit to a pet for the span of their life. The lifespan of a puffer fish in captivity averages about 10 years, depending on the species. Farnau urges pet parents to "never acquire a fish without the commitment to meet [their] long-term needs.”

https://www.petmd.com/fish/fun-facts-about-puffer-fish?utm_source=NewsletterSubscribers&utm_medium=Email&utm_content=Newsletter&utm_ca

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June 3/2026

                                 
How To Read a Cat’s Body Language

By Alison Gerken, DVM, DACVB

5/8/2023

Our feline friends have their own cat language to communicate their thoughts & emotions. They use both their body (including their eyes, ears, whiskers, & tail) & their voice to show what they are thinking & feeling. By learning the body language of a cat, we can better understand & fulfill our kitties’ wants & needs.

Note that when you’re interpreting cat body language, consider everything that’s going on around the cat. Put yourself in the cat’s paws & ask how the situation & environment—including the sights, sounds, & smells—might make them feel. For example, if a person is cornering a cat, even unintentionally, the cat might feel scared or threatened. If a cat looks upset for no reason, they may be sick or in pain.

The following are different body language signs that correspond to various emotions in our cats.

Happy Cat Body Language

When a cat is happy, their posture is typically loose, with their limbs & tail stretched out away from their body when lying down. If they are showing their belly, it probably means that they feel safe—though this is not necessarily an invitation for a belly rub! A happy cat might cuddle up next to you or knead you with their paws.

Eyes: The eyes of a happy cat may be round or partially closed, & their pupils narrow like slits. If a cat blinks slowly at you, it means they trust & love you. You can blink slowly back to show them that you love them too!

Ears: Happy cats’ ears are upright & facing forward.

Tail: A tail that is pointed straight up with a curl at the tip is a reliable sign that a cat is happy & confident.

A cat may purr to express their contentment & pleasure, meow when greeting someone or asking for something like food or attention, or trill (which is like a high-pitched purr) to show they are friendly.

Playful Cat Body Language

Cats are predators with a natural instinct to hunt. When they want to play, they may act like they are hunting by crouching down, wiggling their rear-end, & chasing, pouncing on, or grabbing hold of a toy.

Eyes: A playful cat’s eyes will be big & their pupils might be dilated.

Ears: Their ears will be up & facing forward.

Tail: Cats who are engaged in hunting behaviors will often flick their tail from side to side as they watch whatever is captivating their attention. (However, a flicking tail when the cat is not stalking something most likely means that the cat is annoyed.)

Play provides excellent physical & mental enrichment to help keep cats healthy, so provide them with a toy when they act like they want to play.

Stressed Cat Body Language

When a cat is feeling stressed, they may have a stiff & tense body held low to the ground. The cat may also engage in displacement behaviors—meaning normal behaviors (such as licking their lips, scratching, grooming, & yawning) that are performed out of context—to cope with underlying stress. Stressed cats may also urinate or defecate outside of the litter box.

Eyes: A stressed cat’s eyes may appear wide or narrowed.

Ears: Their ears may be rotated to the sides (in an “airplane ears” pose) or angled backward. The whiskers may be held further forward than normal.

Tail: The cat may hold their tail close to their body or thrash & thump it when feeling stressed or annoyed.

If you notice that your cat is stressed, try to identify the cause & remove it, if possible. If you suspect that you may be causing your cat stress, stop the activity or behavior that could be causing this reaction.

Fearful Cat Body Language

In addition to being predators, cats are also prey & may feel scared when they think something might hurt them. In response, they may initially make themselves look smaller by crouching low to the ground & scrunching up their body.

Eyes: A fearful cat’s eyes widen, & their pupils dilate due to the effects of the fight-or-flight response.

Ears: Their ears are often angled backward or sideways. The further back a cat’s ears are pinned, the more terrified they are. Their whiskers may be pulled back flat against their face.

Tail: A fearful cat may wrap their tail tightly around or underneath their body.

When a cat feels threatened, they may growl & hiss to warn the threat to back off. Hissing is mostly an involuntary reflex that occurs when a cat is scared or startled. As their fear increases, cats may let out a loud, drawn-out yowl followed by a shriek to indicate that they are about to defend themselves.

If a cat exhibits body language consistent with fear, remove the threat. Never attempt to pick up a growling or hissing cat, as this may cause a scared cat to resort to aggression. Many cats may seek a safe space when fearful, so their environment should have plenty of hiding spots & perches that they can easily & quickly access.

Aggressive Cat Body Language

Sometimes when a cat believes they are in danger, they may feel they have no other choice but to fight for their safety. They may try to make themselves look as large & as intimidating as possible by arching their back & letting their fur stand up (an involuntary reaction to fear called piloerection).

Eyes: A cat who is about to become aggressive may have widened eyes with enlarged pupils, or their eyes might be narrowed. They may stare directly at their foe to keep the potential danger in sight.

Ears: Their ears will be turned back or flat against their head & their whiskers might be flat against their cheeks or pushed forward.

Tail: They might flick or thrash their tail.

A cat often attempts to avoid resorting to aggression by growling &/or hissing. But if these warnings are not heeded, then a cat may spit, a sudden & explosive burst of noise that is often accompanied with a lunge or swat. Like hissing, spitting is an involuntary reaction.

Signs of aggression are usually obvious to pet parents, but it’s important to remember that a cat showing aggression is not being mean or vindictive—they are panicking. If you see a cat demonstrating these signs, remove the perceived threat & give the cat space.

Sick or Painful Cat Body Language

A cat’s body language doesn’t just provide a lot of information about how the cat feels emotionally—it can also reveal if the cat is sick or in pain. Cats are pros at masking physical illness, so changes in their body language may be the first signs that something is wrong.

When a cat is in pain or sick, they may hunch their body with their legs tucked underneath them. Their body may appear tense.

Eyes: When a cat is sick or in pain, their eyes may be squinted or held shut & may appear dazed or glassy. Sometimes, the cat’s third eyelid, which is pink tissue in the corner of the eyes, may be visible.

Ears: Their ears may be held low or rotated to the sides.

Tail: Their tail may be held underneath or closely wrapped around their body.

Cats may purr due to pain or illness, & an increase in meowing or yowling may signal emotional or physical distress.

If you see any of these changes (or other changes in your cat’s normal behavior such as hiding, aggression, decreased energy, or changes in appetite, grooming, or sociability), take them to the vet.

Understanding a cat’s body language is essential for understanding their emotions & needs, which will make you a better cat parent & advocate for your cat’s well-being.

https://www.petmd.com/cat/behavior/cat-body-language?utm_source=NewsletterSubscribers&utm_medium=Email&utm_content=Newsletter&utm_campaign=Newsletter&utm_source_platfor

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May 27/2028

                             

Aquatic Turtle Care Sheet

By Melissa Witherell, DVM

9/27/2024

Species Overview

Aquatic turtles live in or near water. This care sheet outlines basic care needs for a variety of aquatic turtle species, including:

Map turtles

Red-eared sliders

Painted turtles

Depending on their species, most aquatic turtles reach their adult size within 5 to 8 years.

Types of Pet Turtles

The red-eared slider is the most popular pet turtle in the United States. These turtles are named for the small red stripe on each side of their face, as well as for their ability to quickly “slide” from their basking spots into the water.

Map turtles are small- to medium-sized turtles that have green or brown skin with yellow stripes. They’re named for the intricate pattern on their upper shell, which resembles a topographic map.

Painted turtles have a similar appearance to red-eared sliders, but without the characteristic red stripe. Painted turtles have a reddish-orange shell.

The top part of a turtle’s shell is called the carapace & the bottom part is the plastron. The entire shell is covered with shield-like keratin plates known as scutes.

In general, aquatic turtles do not enjoy being handled frequently. Pet parents should allow newly homed turtles at least a few days to adjust to their surroundings before handling them.

All reptiles are potential carriers of infectious diseases, including Salmonella bacteria, which is zoonotic (transmittable to people). Because of this, always wash your hands before & after handling your turtle or the habitat’s contents.

Aquatic Turtle Characteristics

Difficulty of Care-----Intermediate

Average Lifespan-----20–40+ years with proper care, depending on species

Average Adult Size-----5–12 inches long, depending on species

Diet-----Juveniles are carnivorous; adults are omnivorous

Minimum Habitat Size-----Varies depending on the turtle’s body length; provide at least 10 gallons of tank space for every inch of body length; 40-gallon minimum recommended

pH-----6.0–8.0

Supply Checklist

To keep an aquatic turtle happy & healthy, have these basic supplies on hand:

Appropriately sized habitat (at least 40 gallons)

Commercial aquatic turtle food

Treats

Light fixtures

Basking bulb

Basking area

Thermometers (submersible & air)

Thermostat for light fixtures

UV light emitter

Submersible water heater

Water filter

Live or artificial plants

Habitat

Turtle Tank Setup

Pet aquatic turtles should be housed in a watertight, well-ventilated glass or plastic enclosure. Since some turtles are proficient climbers, the enclosure must be secured with a screened lid to prevent escape.

As a rule of thumb, an aquatic turtle needs about 10 gallons of tank space for every inch of their body length. The enclosure should be at least 4 to 5 times longer & 3 to 4 times wider than the turtle. The depth of the water inside the aquarium should be roughly one & a half to 2 times the turtle’s length. For example, a 4-inch-long turtle needs a 40-gallon aquarium that measures at least 20–24 inches in length by 16–20 inches in width. The water inside the aquarium should be 6–8 inches deep.

Because it’s illegal to sell turtles under 4 inches long as pets in the United States, an aquarium with a 40-gallon capacity or larger is recommended as a good starting point for most turtles. Make sure the habitat is wide enough for the turtle to swim & turn around comfortably. 

Increase the size of your turtle’s enclosure as they grow. If more than one turtle is to be housed in the same habitat, the recommended habitat dimensions should be increased by 25%.

Aquatic Turtle Habitat Mates

Male aquatic turtles tend to fight with each other, so they should not be housed together. For some aquatic turtle species, females of the same size can share the same enclosure, though they may also fight. When introducing turtles, monitor them closely to make sure the animals are compatible. If they fight, separate them into different enclosures.

If more than one turtle is kept in an enclosure, the habitat’s size must increase accordingly. Remember: Each turtle needs at least 10 gallons of tank space per inch of body length.

Never house different species of turtles in the same enclosure.

Substrate & Basking Area

Using a substrate (material placed at the bottom of the tank) in an aquatic turtle’s tank is optional. Slate, rock, or gravel that is too big for the turtle to fit in their mouth are all suitable choices.

Aquatic turtles enjoy having access to a shallow area where they can submerge their body in water while keeping their head above the surface. Their tank should also have a dry, elevated spot that they can climb onto and bask. Basking spots must be easily accessible from the water.

Commercially available basking spots are available, but a sturdy pile of rocks, floating wood, or cork bark can also be used if they can support the turtle’s weight.

Lighting & Heat Support

Basking Temperature

A basking bulb or ceramic heater should be placed on one end of an aquatic turtle’s tank to create a basking area for the turtle to use during the day. The recommended temperature for the basking area is 85–95 F, while the cooler end of the habitat should be around 75 F.

The wattage needed for the heat bulb depends on the size of the enclosure, the distance of the bulb from the turtle, & the ambient temperature of the room. Adjust the wattage of the bulb to maintain the recommended temperature gradient within the tank.

Note: Some light bulbs provide not only light but also heat &/or ultraviolet (UV) light. Check the specifications of the light sources you are considering to make sure they meet your tank’s needs.

Check the temperatures of your turtle’s habitat daily. 2 thermometers should be placed in the enclosure—one in the warm area & one in the cool area—suspended above the water so you can check both zones simultaneously. Alternatively, a digital point-&-shoot thermometer can be used for instant temperature readings.

Water Temperature

The water in an aquatic turtle’s enclosure should be maintained at 75 F with an aquatic heater. In general, aquarium heaters should have between 2.5–5 watts of power for every gallon of water in a tank; for instance, a 40-gallon tank would require a heater with a wattage between 100 & 200 watts.

You’ll need to use a submersible thermometer to ensure the tank’s water stays within the ideal temperature range. Heaters should also be paired with a thermostat to regulate the aquarium’s temperature & prevent the water from getting too hot. Many modern heaters have built-in thermostats.

UV Light

Aquatic turtles require exposure to ultraviolet (UV) light to produce vitamin D in their skin, which is essential for absorbing dietary calcium & maintaining healthy bones & shells. It’s important to provide your aquatic turtle with 10–12 hours of UV light daily to imitate natural sunlight.

Since UV lights vary in intensity, follow the manufacturer’s recommendations on bulb placement in relation to the turtle.

Lights should be replaced every 6 months, even if the bulb still emits light, as their potency decreases over time.

Turtle Tank Filters

A high-quality filtration system is essential for any aquatic turtle’s habitat. In addition to keeping the tank clean, filters remove harmful toxins, such as ammonia, from the water.

An aquarium’s filter should be powerful enough to process all of the tank’s water at least 4 times per hour. For example, a tank that has 40 gallons of water needs an aquarium filter with a flow rate of at least 160 gallons per hour (GPH). If only 50 or 200 GPH filters are available, purchase the 200 GPH option.

While several types of filtration systems are available, canister filters are recommended for turtle tanks because they provide effective mechanical, biological, & chemical filtration without taking up space inside the habitat. 

Water Depth & Quality

The water depth in an aquatic turtle’s tank should be approximately one & a half to 2 times the length of the turtle. This provides enough space for the turtle to swim comfortably & to easily turn upright if they happen to flip over in the water.

Before being added to a turtle’s tank, water must be treated with a turtle-safe water conditioner to remove chlorine & pollutants.

Water Testing

Regularly test the water in your turtle’s aquarium to ensure that pH, ammonia, nitrate, & nitrite levels are stable & within a safe range. A freshwater aquarium test kit can be used to quickly & accurately measure these key water parameters.

Ideal Water Chemistry for Aquatic Turtles

pH-----6.0–8.0

Chlorine-----0

Ammonia-----0

Nitrite-----0.5 ppm (parts per million) or less; this level should be as near zero as possible

Nitrate-----40 ppm or less

Pet Turtle Decorations

Basking Spot

An aquatic turtle’s enclosure must include a dry, elevated spot for basking that is easily accessible from the water. A DIY basking spot can be created using a pile of rocks or floating wood, as long as it’s sturdy enough to support the turtle’s weight.

Make sure that any rocks in the habitat are larger than the size of the turtle’s head. Otherwise, the turtle may try to eat the rocks, which could lead to a gastrointestinal obstruction.

Cuttlebone

Cuttlebones, the internal shells of cuttlefish, are an excellent way to supplement calcium & other trace minerals in an aquatic turtle’s diet. Calcium is a vital nutrient that helps keep a turtle’s bones & shell healthy.

Cuttlebones can either be affixed to the side of a turtle’s tank with a suction cup or left to float in the aquarium’s water.

Aquatic Plants

You can enrich your turtle’s environment by adding aquatic plants to the tank. Make sure any plants added to the habitat are safe for turtles to eat.

Some turtle-safe plants include:

- Anacharis

- Water lettuce

- Water lilies

- Water ferns

- Water hyacinths

Cleaning & Maintenance

You can maintain the condition of your turtle’s tank by performing routine water changes—25% of the aquarium’s total water volume every week or 50% every other week. New water should be dechlorinated before adding it to the turtle’s habitat, & it should match the temperature of the existing water in the tank.

In addition to water changes, leftover food should be removed from the tank daily to keep the habitat clean.

How To Clean a Turtle Tank

At a minimum, an aquatic turtle’s enclosure should be deep-cleaned once every 3 to 4 weeks. If more than one turtle is housed in the aquarium, cleaning should be done more often. To fully clean a turtle’s tank, follow these steps:

1. Wash your hands: Before cleaning or performing any maintenance on a turtle’s habitat, rinse & wash your hands thoroughly to ensure there are no traces of lotions, perfumes, or other toxic chemicals that could harm your turtle.

2. Move the turtle: Transfer the turtle to a temporary, secure enclosure. Remove all accessories & decor from the habitat that needs to be cleaned.

3. Scrub the tank: Scrub the empty tank & any furnishings with a reptile habitat cleaner or 3% bleach solution. Allow the bleach solution to sit for at least 10 minutes to properly disinfect the surfaces. If using a commercial habitat cleaner, follow the manufacturer’s instructions.

If needed, soak décor in dechlorinated water to remove stubborn debris.

To prevent unsightly scrapes & scratches, acrylic tanks should only be cleaned with specialized cleaning tools designed for acrylic aquariums, such as the API® Extra Long Algae Scraper for Acrylic Aquariums or API® Algae Pad for Acrylic Aquariums.

Rinse thoroughly: Rinse the habitat & accessories thoroughly with water, making sure that any trace amounts or residual smells from the cleaning agent or bleach solution are removed.

Refill the tank: Once the tank is dry, refill it with clean water that’s been treated with a water conditioner. Make sure that heaters, filters, & thermometers are reinstalled correctly.

Return the turtle: Finally, return the turtle & the clean decor to the habitat.

Diet & Nutrition

Aquatic turtles enjoy a variety of foods, including:

Commercially available turtle pellets

Vegetables

Fruit

Earthworms

Occasional treats (such as krill, insects, or small bits of cooked chicken)

Juvenile turtles require more protein in their diet for healthy growth, while adults should consume more plant matter to prevent unhealthy weight gain.

Turtles of all ages should be fed in warm water (in the upper 70s F) to stimulate their appetite & aid digestion. Leftover food should be removed from the habitat daily.

Feeding Guidelines for Aquatic Turtles Under 1 Year Old

Younger aquatic turtles are more carnivorous & require extra protein in their diet for healthy growth. Juvenile aquatic turtles under 1 year of age should be fed every day.

A nutritious & well-balanced diet for a juvenile aquatic turtle consists of:

Protein-rich foods: including mealworms, earthworms, freeze-dried krill, aquatic snails, silkworms, bloodworms, or bits of cooked chicken. Protein-rich foods should make up a major portion of a juvenile slider’s diet compared to other foods, & a higher percentage of the total diet compared to adult sliders.   

Rosy reds & common goldfish should only be offered as an occasional treat, as they are high in fat & can lead to obesity.

Dark leafy greens & other vegetables: Plant matter should make up about 25–30% of a juvenile aquatic turtle’s diet.

Dark leafy greens should be the mainstay of their plant-based diet.

Bell peppers, carrots, squash, & green beans are all excellent sources of vitamin A, which supports a turtle’s overall health.

Nontoxic aquatic plants, such as anacharis & water lettuce, can also be included.

Vegetables can be shredded or chopped into bite-sized pieces before being added to a turtle’s tank, which is especially helpful for young & small turtles.

Commercially available pellets or sticks formulated for aquatic turtles: Pelleted food should make up no more than 25% of a juvenile turtle’s diet.

Follow the manufacturer’s instructions to determine the appropriate amount of food to feed your turtle daily. Any uneaten food should be discarded before each feeding & replaced with fresh food.

Feeding Guidelines for Aquatic Turtles Over 1 Year Old

An aquatic turtle is generally considered an adult when they reach around 1 year of age, although this can vary by species. Turtles over 1 year of age should be fed every 2 to 3 days (unless otherwise instructed by a veterinarian).

Leafy greens & other vegetables: These should make up about 50–60% of an adult turtle’s diet.

Commercially available sticks or pelleted food: This should constitute no more than 25% of an adult turtle’s diet.

Fruits: Small amounts of fruits such as apples, cantaloupes, & berries can be offered as an occasional treat. Fruit should be finely chopped into bite-sized pieces before being added to the turtle’s tank.

Treats: Including fruit, treats should not make up more than 10% of a turtle’s total diet.

Grooming & Care

Shedding

Aquatic turtles will naturally shed their scutes (the shield-like keratin plates on a turtle’s shell) throughout their lifetime. To encourage healthy shedding, be sure to maintain proper water conditions in the tank & provide adequate calcium in the turtle’s diet.

If you notice any deformities or signs of damage on a turtle’s shell, such as scrapes, scratches, dents, or soft spots, these should be addressed by a veterinarian.

Beak Care

Instead of teeth, turtles have a rigid “beak” at the front of their mouth, which they use to break down food. Most turtles do not require beak trimming, as it should wear down gradually with daily use.

Consult a veterinarian if your turtle’s beak looks overgrown (hanging past its jawline) or misshapen, if the turtle has difficulty opening & closing its mouth, or if it is dropping food. Never try to trim your turtle’s beak on your own.

Veterinary Care

Annual Care

Aquatic turtles should be seen by a veterinarian at least once a year for a physical exam, fecal testing, & blood work. They can be transported in a plastic container or critter keeper. You can line the container with paper towels for smaller turtles or towels for larger ones. Misting your turtle prior to transportation is recommended to provide moisture, but do not fill the container with water.

Signs of a Healthy Pet Turtle

Clear & clean eyes, ears, & nares (nostrils)

Clean, pink tongue & gums

Skin free of abrasions, ulcers, growths, or parasites

Clean vent (the opening through which waste is expelled)

Active

Healthy appetite

Smooth, firm shell without defects or discoloration

No swelling or bumps

Breathing easily without effort, no nasal discharge or bubbles

Species-appropriate beak length

When To Call a Vet

Swollen, sunken, closed eyes, or eyes with discharge

Ulcers, abrasions, swelling, bumps, or discoloration (e.g., redness) on the skin

Lethargy or hiding behavior

Loss of appetite (not eating)

Nasal discharge or bubbles, difficulty breathing

Difficulty moving, standing, or walking

Divots, defects, discoloration, or trauma to the shell

Diarrhea, constipation, straining, or difficulty urinating or defecating

Discharge or prolapse (protrusion of tissue) from the vent

Signs of trauma or injury

Common Illnesses

Bladder stones

Tissue prolapse from vent (such as bladder, uterus, penis, intestines, or cloaca [the common outlet for waste & reproductive fluids])

Metabolic bone disease

Shell fracture or trauma

Egg binding (being unable to pass eggs)

Loss of appetite (not eating)

Abscesses

Shell rot

Respiratory disease

Foreign body ingestion

Aquatic Pet Turtle FAQs

How long do pet turtles live?

On average, pet turtles can live 20–30 years in captivity, but some species can live much longer.

What do pet turtles eat?

Depending on the species, some turtles are omnivores, eating both plants & meat, while others are more carnivorous & primarily consume meat. As aquatic turtles mature, they generally increase their plant consumption. Commercial aquatic turtle pellets, chopped leafy greens, mixed vegetables, & fruit are excellent dietary options, complemented by a good vitamin supplement.

Are turtles good pets?

Turtles can make great pets with proper care and nutrition, & having a pet turtle can be very rewarding.

What turtles stay small?

Painted turtles are smaller compared to red-eared sliders or map turtles, ranging from 2.5 to 10 inches long, with females typically larger than males. Note that the sale of small turtles with a shell length under 4 inches is prohibited by law in the U.S.

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May 20/2026

                                
Can Dogs Get the Flu? Understanding Canine Influenza Symptoms & Treatment

By Michael Kearley, DVM. Reviewed by Teresa Manucy, DVM

9/12/2025

Canine influenza virus (CIV), commonly referred to as dog flu, is a highly contagious respiratory virus that affects dogs of all ages & breeds. Dog flu has been reported in most parts of the U.S. 

Summary

Yes. Fortunately, dog flu doesn’t commonly cause death in dogs. 

Dog flu is caused by 2 different types of influenza viruses: H3N2 & H3N8. Both strains originated in other species, including birds (H3N2) & horses (H3N8) before adapting to dogs. The flu virus can also affect cats.  

Symptoms

Because dog flu is a virus that affects the lungs, your dog will experience respiratory & flu-like symptoms. 

Symptoms of canine respiratory virus include: 

- A dry cough, which often persists for weeks 

- Fever (103 F & above) 

- Nasal & eye discharge 

- Sneezing 

- Decreased appetite 

- Lethargy or decreased energy 

In severe cases of dog flu, your dog may experience secondary bacterial infections, fever, & even pneumonia, which can be life-threatening. 

If your dog begins to experience flu-like symptoms, take them to the vet immediately. 

Causes

Dog flu is extremely contagious to other dogs. Studies have shown that the virus can travel up to 20 feet in dogs’ respiratory droplets when they sneeze or cough. 

This is the primary route of infection, but dogs can also become infected with dog flu through: 

- Contaminated food bowls 

- Contaminated water bowls 

- Shared toys 

- Leashes 

- Collars 

- Clothing 

- Indirect human contact (such as handling an infected dog & then touching/playing with other dogs) 

Dog flu can also survive in the environment for an extensive amount of time. 

Canine respiratory virus can survive on skin & hands for 12 hours, on clothing for 24 hours, & on surfaces for up to 48 hours. 

It takes 2 to 4 days after exposure to the virus before clinical signs develop. This is called the incubation period. 

Even though any dog can become infected with dog flu, dogs adopted from shelters or those who frequent crowded places like dog parks, doggy daycares, or kennels may be at increased risk. 

Diagnosis

Symptoms of dog flu will resemble many other types of respiratory infections. Because of this, it’s important that your dog be tested so they receive the right treatment. 

To diagnose dog flu, your vet will perform a PCR panel. 

A swab is obtained from your dog’s nose, conjunctiva (pink mucus membrane inside the eyelid), or pharynx (back of the throat where the esophagus & trachea/windpipe meet the mouth). 

Then, this sample is sent to a laboratory & analyzed for DNA containing the virus. 

Additional testing such as blood work & chest radiographs are often recommended to evaluate your dog’s general health & hydration status. 

This testing is also used to look for evidence of pneumonia, which must be treated aggressively.  

Call your veterinarian prior to arrival to let them know that your dog is experiencing flu-like symptoms. There are protocols & procedures that your vet must follow to prevent transmission to other dogs in the office. 

Treatment

Treatment of dog flu is largely supportive. 

Keeping your dog calm, rested, & hydrated is paramount to ensuring a speedy recovery. In the hospital, this may include IV fluids, cough suppressants, & nutritional support. 

For cases involving secondary bacterial infection, an antibiotic such as Clavamox or doxycycline, among others, is often prescribed. 

Infected dogs should be isolated from all other pets at the onset of symptoms & up to 3 to 4 weeks. 

Do not bring your dog to any of the following places while they recover: 

- Dog parks 

- Boarding facilities 

- Playgroups 

- The groomer   

- Daycare 

Because dog flu can be transmitted from clothing, pet parents should change clothes/shoes & disinfect with thorough handwashing before interacting with other pets. 

Recovery & Management

Fortunately, many pups recover from dog flu within a few weeks & have little to no lasting complications. However, your dog may have a cough that lasts during this period. 

Younger or older dogs—or dogs that are immunocompromised—may experience more severe symptoms such as pneumonia & may even pass away from the disease. 

To ensure the best outcome possible, it’s important to seek veterinary attention at the first sign that your dog is sick. 

Prevention

Fortunately, there’s a flu vaccine for dogs designed to protect against both strains of dog flu.  

Nobivac & Zoetis both manufacture the vaccine, which can be given to puppies as young as 7 or 8 weeks of age, with a booster 3 weeks later & yearly thereafter. 

Side effects are rare & include symptoms associated with hypersensitivity & allergic reactions, such as: 

- Vomiting 

- Diarrhea 

- Facial swelling 

- Hives 

- Severe anaphylactic reaction 

It’s important to ensure your dogs are up-to-date on their vaccines. Limit your dog’s time at doggy playgroups, boarding facilities, & similar spaces—especially if there are dogs around that are either unvaccinated or of unknown vaccination history. 

Proper hand & paw washing when leaving these places can help prevent illness. Consider using a dog paw cleaner like the Dexas Popware MudBuster Portable Dog Paw Cleaner. 

Ask your veterinarian if vaccinations for respiratory illnesses should be part of your dog’s preventative care plan. 

Keep in mind that vaccines may not always prevent infection but will make it less likely. If your dog is vaccinated & does get infected, symptoms are often milder, & the course of disease is shorter.  

Fortunately, the influenza virus is easily killed in the environment, typically with routine household cleaners like bleach & soapy water. 

Dog Flu FAQs

Can dogs get the flu from humans?

There’s no evidence that dogs can get the human flu. 

Is there an at-home treatment for dog flu?

Dogs with a mild case of the flu that are still eating, drinking, & acting normal otherwise can be treated at home without having to be hospitalized. 

Minor coughing can be helped with a humidifier or breathing in hot steam from the shower. Always reach out to your vet to determine the best course of treatment depending on your dog’s individual case. 

How long does the flu last in dogs?

Most dogs recover from the flu within 2 to 3 weeks. 

Pups that have more severe illness such as pneumonia may take longer to recover. Prompt medical treatment can help decrease the chance of severe flu-like symptoms in dogs. 

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May 13/2026

                               
17 FUN Facts About Hummingbirds! (that will make you hum)

By Lindsey Dahle

17 FUN Facts About Hummingbirds! (that will make you hum) - Bird Watching HQ

Seriously, these tiny birds are some of the most interesting creatures in the world. 

#1. Hummingbirds love the color red.

Hummingbirds are naturally attracted to things that are red. While it’s not entirely understood why, many people believe that hummingbirds like red flowers because they typically have the most nectar!

There are plenty of ways to add a pop of red to your garden if you want to attract hummingbirds. Flowers like the red cardinal flower & trumpet honeysuckle are 2 of their favorite red blossoms.

You can also buy a nectar feeder with red accents on the feeding ports or base. However, resist the temptation to add red dye to your hummingbird nectar! It isn’t necessary to attract hummingbirds, & it can make them sick.

#2. They eat more than just nectar.

Although hummingbirds eat lots of nectar to stay active & keep their energy up, they also need additional food sources for protein & other nutrition. There are 3 main foods that hummers eat besides nectar:

A. Insects

Hummingbirds eat insects for protein & other nutrients that nectar doesn’t provide. So the next time you have some fruit that’s getting old, instead of throwing it away, put it outside! The reason is that rotting fruit attracts lots of fruit flies, which is a favorite food of most hummingbird species!

B. Spiders

Many species of hummingbirds also eat small spiders. They will pluck these arachnids right off their webs or while hiding on a plant. If you want to provide a buffet of fresh spiders for your local birds, my recommendation is to fill your yard with native flowers, shrubs, & trees! In addition, many hummer species use spider silk to build their nests!

C. Tree Sap

Believe it or not, many hummingbird species rely greatly on sugary tree sap at certain times of the year. When hummingbirds migrate north, they arrive before many flowers have started to bloom, which creates a big problem. Hummingbirds need sugar constantly to support their high-energy lifestyle.

To ensure they have adequate nutrition, hummingbirds will time their northward migration to follow sapsuckers. These woodpeckers drill large holes into trees to release their sap. Once the woodpeckers drill a well into a tree, hummingbirds follow to drink the sugary sap!

The coolest fact about hummingbirds eating sap is that they prefer maple tree sap. Of course, pancake-loving humans have this in common with hummingbirds!

#3. Hummingbirds are tiny!

2 of the most common hummingbirds in North America are the Ruby-Throated Hummingbird & Rufous Hummingbird. They measure just 2.8-3.5 inches (7-9 cm) long! Despite their small size, they migrate enormous distances each year & pollinate thousands of flowers along their route.

Even among other birds, which are some of the lightest animals for their size, hummingbirds are incredibly lightweight. Fully grown Ruby-Throated & Rufous Hummingbirds only weigh about 3 grams, which is the same as a single penny!

#4. Their nests are impossibly small.

These tiny birds make equally tiny nests. Their size varies slightly from species to species, but on average nests are only 1-2 inches wide & an inch deep!

Although the size of their nests is amazing, I think the coolest fact about hummingbird nests is how they’re made.

Like most other birds, hummingbirds start with a base of leaves, twigs, & grasses. But once the base is constructed, the rest of the nest is made from spiderweb silk!

Hummingbirds take the silk from webs & weave it into a soft, springy nest for their young. While they’re collecting the silk, they sometimes even pluck a fruit fly from the web for a snack!

After the nest is created, hummingbirds lay eggs that are 0.5-0.6 in (1.2-1.5 cm), about the size of a small jellybean. Ruby-throats lay 1 to 3 eggs at a time, & as you can imagine, the eggs completely fill the inside of the nest!

#5. Hummingbirds are aggressive & territorial.

If you have a particularly territorial hummer, you may need to hang more than one feeder!

Despite their small size (or perhaps because of it), hummingbirds are one of the most territorial backyard birds. It’s not uncommon to see fights between hummingbirds near the feeders in your backyard. Hummingbirds will even dive-bomb & zip toward much larger birds to let them know who’s boss!

The most aggressive behavior happens in spring when male hummingbirds are claiming new territory to breed. Males claim territory by discouraging other birds from staying too long, which means they will target intruders at feeders & resting spots.

#6. They aren’t able to walk or hop.

Although they use their legs to perch while they rest & drink nectar, hummingbirds don’t walk or hop like most birds.

They can scoot sideways but prefer to hover or fly to get around.

Even though they can’t walk, their legs are small for a very good reason. Their small limbs help hummingbirds fly faster by making them more aerodynamic and reducing the amount of energy they use while flying.

#7. Hummingbirds eat a ton of food!

Hummingbirds need to consume enormous amounts to maintain their energy levels.

They eat every 15-20 minutes & consume half their body weight in nectar & insects each day! However, hummingbirds can eat much more than that during migration & times of heavy travel. Some estimates show hummingbirds can eat up to 8 TIMES their body weight in a single day!

To help sustain their energy requirements, hummingbirds can visit up to 2,000 flowers per day, searching for nectar. All that traveling from flower to flower is one of the main reasons hummingbirds are such important pollinators.

#8. Hummingbird flocks have fun names.

One of my favorite facts about hummingbirds is the different names people call their flocks. Some of these include a “bouquet”, a “glittering”, a “hover”, or my personal favorite, a “shimmer”. I think this last name describes the beautiful iridescence of their feathers perfectly!

Although hummingbirds are solitary migrators, they will visit nectar feeders in large flocks. This hummingbird feeding station in California is a great example!

#9. Hummingbirds are FAST!

You might think that because hummingbirds are so tiny, they aren’t powerful. But the undeniable fact about hummingbirds is that they are athletic powerhouses!

The fastest species, Anna’s Hummingbird, can fly up to 50 mph (80 kph) & reach diving speeds of 61mph (98 kph). Imagine something the size of a ping pong ball hurtling past you at highway speed, all under its own power. It’s amazing to think about!

And it’s not just their speed that makes hummingbirds impressive. They flap their wings an incredible 80 times per second, completely blurring their wings to the human eye. When they hover in the air, it can sometimes look like they don’t have wings at all!

#10. Hummingbird migrations are unbelievable feats.

Hummingbirds are some of the toughest travelers around! Especially when you consider how SMALL they are.

The Rufous hummingbird makes the longest migratory trip, traveling up to 3,900 miles (6,276 km) from Mexico to Washington State! If we look at that distance from the hummingbird’s perspective, it’s about 78.4 MILLION body lengths! 

This distance is even more astounding when you consider that Rufous hummingbirds complete the journey in only 3 short months. And then, they repeat it only a couple of months later! Most Rufous hummingbirds begin migrating south in August, after arriving at their summer home in May.

#11. Hummingbirds benefit from shade-grown coffee!

Hummingbirds, like many migratory birds, depend on tropical forests in Central America for survival during the winter months. Unfortunately, these critical habitats are increasingly threatened by deforestation, often driven by agricultural practices such as sun-grown coffee farming, which replaces forests with open plantations.

Shade-grown coffee, on the other hand, is cultivated beneath a canopy of native trees, preserving the layered structure of the forest & maintaining vital ecosystems. This traditional method of farming allows hummingbirds & other wildlife to find food, shelter, & safe resting places.

#12. They go dormant in cold weather to survive.

Torpor is a state of near-hibernation that hummingbirds can enter during cold weather. They slow their heart rate & breathing to conserve energy & can appear to be deeply asleep or even dead while they’re in this state.

Hummingbirds use this survival mechanism during migration when unseasonably cool nights make for harsh conditions. Their body temperature, which normally hovers around 102-104 degrees F (40 degrees C), can drop to 50 degrees F (10 degrees C). As a result, their heart rate drops, & they become incredibly still.

The most unsettling part of torpor is that hummingbirds in this state tend to hang upside down! It can look like the hummingbird has died, which is scary for any bird lover. If you notice a hummingbird hanging upside down, wait for the weather to warm up & see if the hummingbird starts to become active again. 

#13. Hummingbirds can fly backward.

Without a doubt, the coolest fact about hummingbirds is that they can fly backward!

Their powerful wings allow them to hover, change direction, & stop in midair in the blink of an eye. If you have hummingbirds in your yard, you’ve probably seen them doing acrobatic tricks.

#14. Hummingbirds love moving water.

One strategy to get more hummingbirds to visit your yard is to give them a MOVING water source. Although bird baths are fantastic, most hummingbirds will ignore them unless a bubbler or mister is agitating the water.

Having a fountain is a great way to get the attention of hummingbirds. Many decorative outdoor fountains are available, which will look great in your flower garden.

Or you can purchase an inexpensive solar fountain that should fit inside an existing birdbath. The best part about a solar fountain is you won’t have any annoying cords to deal with.

Hummingbirds LOVE flying through mist. The light spray is perfect for their tiny bodies. Not to mention, having a mister around is great for human enjoyment too! 

Getting water movement can be as simple as having a dripper. And it’s easy to make your own by filling a used milk jug with water & creating a tiny hole at the bottom. Then, hang the jug over a plant so the water will slowly drip out & soak the leaves, leaving an excellent place for hummingbirds to get a drink. You can also purchase a dripper, which are made for pet reptiles!

#15. Hummingbirds don’t have a sense of smell.

Although we associate them with flowers & sweet nectar, hummingbirds don’t have any sense of smell at all. Instead, they primarily use their eyesight to find their way to food & shelter.

This is why it’s so effective to use the color red & sparkling, bubbling water to attract hummingbirds. When they see something they like, they can’t help but investigate!

#16. They have excellent eyesight!

One of the most important facts about hummingbirds is their incredible eyesight! Thinking about how they use their vision will help you decide the best way to attract hummingbirds to your yard.

If a hummingbird wants a drink of water, it will look for sparkly bubbles or a fine mist & head straight for it. A bright flower garden or fiery red feeding port will draw their attention if it’s time for a meal. Make sure to include these eye-catching elements to see the most hummingbirds!

In addition to seeing well, hummingbirds can see colors humans can’t see at all! It’s hard to imagine colors besides the ones we can see, but hummingbirds can perceive colors outside our color spectrum. Their world is truly technicolor!

#17. Hummingbirds ONLY live in the western hemisphere!

An incredible fact about hummingbirds is just how many species there are – over 330! And every single one lives in the western hemisphere, either in North, South, or Central America.

What’s more, most of these species will never travel more than 700 miles from the equator, preferring to stay in the warmest part of the globe.

Only 8 species of hummingbird are commonly seen in the United States. The rest spend all their time closer to the equator, particularly in Central & South America.

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