Sept. 2/2026

                              

What You Need to Know Before You Adopt a Rabbit

By Laurie Hess, DVM, DABVP

Published Feb. 12/2019

Rabbits are one of the most popular exotic animals kept as pets these days, &—when adopted into the appropriate home—they can make terrific companions. Bunnies come in all colors, shapes, & sizes, & are readily adoptable from shelters & breeders.

They are perfect pets for small living quarters, as they don’t take up a lot of space, don’t need to go outside & are generally very quiet.

Typically cute & cuddly looking, rabbits can bond to their owners closely & respond to them by sight & sound. Unfortunately, because of their adorable appearance, too many people impulsively adopt a rabbit, especially around Easter time, without knowing what kind of care or supplies these animals require. 

As a result, new rabbit owners may ultimately become disillusioned with their pets once they realize that these animals require time & effort to care for properly. Too many bunnies are abandoned in shelters as a result of impulsive rabbit adoption.

If you’re deciding whether or not to adopt a rabbit, there are several things you should know before bringing one home:

Rabbits Have a Long Expected Life Span

With proper diet & medical care, rabbits can live 8-12 years or more—which is longer than many other small animal pets.

So, before you adopt a rabbit, be sure you are prepared to feed, house & offer attention to a pet for that many years.

Bunnies Do Best as Indoor Pets

Unlike their wild counterparts, pet rabbits live longer & healthier lives when kept inside. Outside, these prey species are exposed to dangerous wild predators, including hawks, foxes, coyotes, & stray dogs.

Plus, their thick fur coats & absence of sweat glands often lead them to overheat easily when exposed to temperatures over 80 degrees Fahrenheit. On the other hand, rabbits typically have little fur on their ears & on the bottoms of their feet, predisposing them to frostbite if they are outside in freezing weather.

If bunnies are allowed outside, they should be provided with shade if it is excessively hot & a heated area if it is excessively cold. They also must have access to water at all times when they are outside & be monitored at all times to protect them from attack by predatory wild animals.

Rabbits Need Exercise

Although rabbits don’t need to go outside or be walked like dogs, they do need time every day out of their rabbit cages.

Daily exercise aids in their digestion & prevents excessive weight gain, plus many rabbits enjoy running around & jumping on top of things. Ideally, rabbits are provided with a bunny-safe room or penned off area indoors which they can explore.

However, they should never be out of their cages unsupervised, as they are known to chew on inappropriate objects (such as painted surfaces & electrical wires) & notoriously get into trouble.

Every Bunny Has Her Own Personality

Rabbits’ personalities differ just like those of people. Some bunnies are reserved & quiet, while others are energetic & outgoing. Before taking a new rabbit home, a person considering whether to adopt a rabbit should spend time getting to know the bunny’s demeanor to make sure it is well-suited to theirs.

Rabbits Need to Be Socialized

While some rabbits are gregarious, others may be shy & try to hide when they are first adopted. Therefore, it’s critical that new owners spend time petting & handling their new bunnies to help them transition happily into their new environment.

New owners must always handle their rabbits safely & gently, being sure to support their hind legs so they feel secure & safe from injury. Rabbits whose hind ends are not properly supported when they are held can kick their strong back legs & break their backs.

Rabbits Need a High-Fiber Diet to Stay Healthy

Bunnies are herbivores (vegetable eaters) who need to consume large amounts of hay each day, not only to help wear down their continuously growing teeth, but also to provide fiber to the bacteria in their gastrointestinal (GI) tracts that break down their food. 

A proper daily diet for a bunny includes unlimited amounts of timothy or other grass hay plus a smaller amount of leafy green vegetables—including romaine lettuce, carrot tops, endive, basil, kale, cabbage, radicchio, wheat grass, squash, brussels sprouts, parsley, pea pods (not loose peas), & collard, beet or dandelion greens.

While appropriate for young, growing bunnies & pregnant or nursing rabbits, alfalfa hay is not generally recommended for full-grown rabbits as they approach 1 year of age as it is too high in calcium & calories. Hay may be provided in a bowl or from a commercially available basket or net that hangs inside the cage.

In general, rabbits should not be offered much fruit other than an occasional small slice of high-fiber apple, pear, plum or peach. Carrots are also high in sugar & should be offered only in small quantities.

To ensure they receive all the micronutrients they need, rabbits should be provided limited amounts of high-fiber, timothy hay-based rabbit pellets (no more than ½ cup per 4-5 pounds of rabbit weight per day).

Excess pellet consumption can lead to diarrhea & obesity. Pellets should not be mixed with seeds, grains or nuts, as rabbits’ GI tracts are not equipped to digest these high-fat items. If ingested, these items can cause GI upset & weight gain.

Bunnies also should be provided with fresh water daily in both a sipper bottle & a bowl, as different rabbits have preferred methods of drinking.

Bunnies Are Fastidious Groomers

Rabbits typically groom themselves often & keep themselves quite clean, so they don’t require professional grooming. However, like cats & dogs, they need their nails trimmed every few weeks, & long-haired breeds—such as the Angora—should be brushed weekly to prevent matting of their hair.

Bunnies do not generally need to be bathed unless stool sticks to their hind ends. Bunnies normally produce 2 types of droppings: fecal pellets & cecotropes. Cecotropes are partially digested foods that rabbits ingest for essential vitamins & other nutrients.

Rabbit cages should be lined with paper-based bedding (shredded newspaper or a commercially produced, recycled, paper-based products) that should be spot-cleaned daily & completely cleaned out once a week.

Bunnies can be trained easily to use a small litter pan in the corner of the cage containing a type of paper-based bedding that’s different from that in the cage. The litter box should be scooped daily & completely cleaned weekly.

Bunnies Can Live With Other Pets

While rabbits are prey species, & other commonly kept pets, such as cats, dogs & ferrets, are predators whose instinct is to catch prey. However, these animals can live harmoniously in one household if they are constantly supervised.

A well-meaning predatory pet may only want to play with a bunny by picking it up in its mouth; however, their sharp teeth, long claws & germ-laden saliva may inadvertently hurt the bunny. Thus, dogs, cats & ferrets should never be left alone with a rabbit, no matter how gentle & friendly they seem.

Rabbits Must Chew

All rabbits’ teeth—both front & back—grow continuously. Thus, it is essential that they have an unlimited amount of hay as well as safe rabbit toys, such as hard wooden blocks & sticks (like commercially available applewood branches), to chew on to help keep teeth worn down.

If not provided with safe objects to chew on, rabbits will chew on furniture, moldings, door frames, carpets, flooring, wires, & other inappropriate objects. Thus, bunnies must be supervised at all times when they are out of their cages, & all areas they have access to must be bunny-proofed in advance.

In addition, their cages should be lockable, as rabbits are notorious escape-artists.

Rabbits Require Veterinary Care

While bunnies don’t require annual vaccinations like dogs & cats, they do require annual preventative veterinary care, including checkups & fecal examinations to look for GI parasites. They also should be examined by a veterinarian as soon as they are adopted to ensure that they are healthy.

In addition, after 6 months of age, all female rabbits should be spayed, since 70-80% of unspayed female bunnies develop fatal uterine cancer after age 3.

Rabbits can be phenomenal, long-lived companions when cared for properly, but they are not right for everyone & should not be adopted impulsively.

If you learn about the care they require & have the time to spend with them, look no farther than your local rabbit shelter to find a bunny just waiting to be taken home.

What You Need to Know Before You Adopt a Rabbit | PetMD

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Aug. 26/2026

                              

Meet Gustavo, The Baby Pudu Who Has The Internet 'Overwhelmed By Its Cuteness'

By Jaz Joyner  

Aug. 10/2026 

There's a lot that goes into welcoming an animal into your space for the first time. Your first week with your new cat or dog, for example, can be full of surprises, from developing their daily routine to watching them discover their favorite relaxing spots around the house. Now, just imagine all those firsts at a zoo! The Nashville Zoo has welcomed its very own baby pudu, named Gustavo, in an adorable TikTok. This cutie's warm welcome has been viewed over 50,000 times, likely because it's just that cute!

Here's some fun facts about this adorable fawn. He weighed just over 2 pounds at birth! His tininess makes sense, too, because pudus are the smallest deer species in the world. The Nashville Zoo also shared that Gustavo got his name from the animal care team. "Gustavo is a popular name in Argentina, part of the southern pudu's native range & has meanings connected to greatness & royalty."

New Gustavo fans immediately fell in love with the little pudu in the comments. One joked that they'd be leaving with a "suspicious, pudu-fawn-sized lump in their coat," implying their wish of secretly adopting dear Gustavo, while another, overwhelmed by his cuteness, created jewelry in his honor. Seriously, though, it's hard not to adore him!

More about pudus

Here's more about pudus, the South American herbivores that are almost too cute for words. Pudus are tiny deer with 2 species — southern & northern. Northern pudus are smaller than southern pudus, if you can imagine a deer even littler than Gustavo. They've got the sweetest doe-eyes & short little legs, they average about 8 to 18 pounds, & are only 2 feet tall.

Pudus aren't fussy about their diet, eating anything from mushrooms & other fungi to vines, nuts, & berries; just as long as it's not meat or fish. They're originally from the rainforests of Argentina & Chile, & those little legs of theirs help them trek through thick vegetation. Pudus are known to be pretty solitary & cautious mammals, wary of predators. Their more social times occur during rutting (or breeding) season, when adult males "joust" with their little antlers to compete for their mates, which may not be as cute as it sounds.

Unfortunately, in a growing list of animals like the Kermode bear (a rare mammal discovered in North America), pudus are also facing new environmental threats. In fact, hunting, human-made habitat destruction, & farming have classified pudus as near-threatened by the International Union for Conservation of Nature. Births like Gustavo's are part of current conservation efforts, & they help to better educate people on the state of these adorable deer. So, tell your friends about Gustavo, & let them enjoy his adorableness, too!

Read More: https://www.cuteness.com/2232321/gustavo-baby-pudu-internet-overwhelmed-by-cuteness/

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Aug. 19/2026

                                

This Theory Might Explain Why Your Cat Sits On Your Keyboard So Often (& It's Not Because Of Heat)

By Cynthia Anaya  

12/20/2025 

It's probably happened to you a dozen times. You're typing on your laptop or desktop computer when your feline friend decides to plop down squarely on the keyboard, demanding your attention. Or, maybe you assume that it chooses to commandeer your keyboard as its resting spot because of the warmth it provides. According to animal behavior expert Dr. David Sands, the real reason involves feline scent-driven ownership (via Science Focus). This means heat isn't what's attracting your kitty to your keyboard; your smell is. 

As naturally territorial animals, cats primarily use scent to mark their turf. They use the scent glands on their cheeks, face, chin, & paw pads to claim objects as their territory. Simply lying on an object, like your keyboard, also does the trick. With all the typing you do, all the keys & crevices of your keyboard smell like you, so by lying on them, your cat is basically saying, "You're mine." It's mixing its own scent with yours.

This could be seen as a sweet gesture or compliment, depending on your perspective. After all, many pet owners would affectionately say that they "own" their pets. With that comes thoughtful purchases like toys, cozy beds, scratch posts, dog or cat treats, maybe a personalized dog or cat collar, & so on. So when your cat does something that suggests it owns you, the gesture could indicate the same sentiment.

Ways to keep your cat off of your keyboard

Seeing your kitty lie on your keyboard might seem cute the first time it happens, but if it becomes a regular thing, you'll probably want it to stop. Sure, you could just shut the door while you work, leaving your cat on the other side. However, if you're working in an open space without a door, or if your cat is determined to get in no matter what, you'll need a different approach. So, how do you get your cat to stay off your keyboard? By redirecting.

Consider creating an alternative that's just as appealing to your cat as your keyboard. Place a soft, comfy cat bed or that irresistible cardboard box near your work area & place one of your shirts in it. This gives your cat someplace else to lie that smells like you & still lets it mark its territory, without messing up anything on your computer screen. You might even want to sprinkle some catnip on your shirt to make the bed or box even more enticing.

As another option, you can have some of the best solo-play cat toys on hand as a way to redirect your cat's attention. Whip out the interactive puzzle or electronic concealed motion cat toy to keep your kitty busy & distracted. It just might tire itself out enough that it will lose all interest in what you're doing. That way, it can still hang out with you without interrupting your work.

Read More: https://www.cuteness.com/2052103/theory-explain-why-cat-loves-sitting-on-keyboard/

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August 12/2026

                            

10 Dog Breeds That Can’t Tolerate the Summer Heat

By Nicole Zittritsch, LVT, BSc, MPH. Reviewed by Barri J. Morrison, DVM

Updated May 27/2026

As temperatures rise, some dog breeds might not handle the heat as well as others. Dogs that are susceptible to hot weather include flat-faced breeds like French Bulldogs & dogs with thick coats like the Chow Chow.

How To Protect a Dog During Heatwaves

As the temperatures rise, keeping dogs cool is an important part of pet parenthood. If dogs are not properly cared for in hot weather, they can experience heatstroke & other heat-related conditions. And if a dog’s body temperature rises to dangerous heights, it can be fatal.

It’s essential that you protect your dog during extreme heat by:

Limiting time spent outside in hot weather

Keeping outdoor exercise restricted to cooler parts of the day (morning & evening)

Giving your dog cool baths

Offering your dog shade, air conditioning, cooling mats, & constant access to fresh water in a dog water bowl or dog water fountain.

Dog Breeds That Can't Handle the Heat

Here are some dog breeds that are particularly susceptible to hot weather.

1. Akita

In cold weather, an Akita’s thick double coat provides insulation. But in hot weather, this coat may cause them to overheat. This, coupled with their heavy build, means Akitas have a low tolerance for heat.

2. Alaskan Malamute

The Alaskan Malamute was bred to pull heavy loads in freezing Alaskan temperatures. This makes them one of the best dog breeds for cold weather, but one of the worst for hot climates.

Keeping your Malamute inside during the hottest parts of the day & routinely grooming them with a comb or undercoat rake to remove excess fur can help your dog stay comfortable in the summer.

3. Boston Terrier

Unlike Akitas & Alaskan Malamutes, Boston Terriers don’t have a thick fur coat. But they are brachycephalic, meaning they have a short muzzle that makes it difficult for these dogs to cool themselves off by panting.

During the summer months, it’s important to keep a Boston Terrier’s environment cool & well-ventilated. Avoid going outside & engaging in strenuous activities during the hottest parts of the day.

4. Boxer

Because Boxers are brachycephalic & have high energy levels, they tend to overheat easily. Make sure their daily walks are restricted to cooler parts of the day (morning or evening) & that they have a cool, shaded place to rest during the heat of the afternoon.

5. Chow Chow

Chow Chows are not well suited for hot weather due to their thick double coat & heavy build. When not properly cared for, they can easily overheat. Regular grooming prevents matting & gets rid of excess fur that contributes to heat. Keep your Chow inside during extreme weather.

6. English Bulldog

The flat face of an English Bulldog makes this breed prone to overheating. It’s vital that pet parents restrict this dog’s outdoor activity during the heat of the day. This shouldn’t be too difficult, as English Bulldogs have a reputation for being lazy & calm dogs.

7. French Bulldog

Another short-muzzled breed, French Bulldogs cannot effectively cool down through panting. And because dogs don’t sweat like humans do, this can be dangerous.

French Bulldogs are the most popular dog breed in the U.S., & their pet parents need to know how to keep this breed cool & safe. Strenuous activities should be avoided during the hottest parts of the day. Consider cooling mats or fans to help reduce your Frenchie’s body temperature, & ensure they have 24/7 access to fresh water.

8. Pekingese

Pekingese can’t tolerate hot weather because they have a long, thick coat & because they’re brachycephalic. They may benefit from a summer haircut to help them stay cool, & they should always be kept inside during the hottest parts of the day.

9. Pug

Despite the Pug’s short fur & compact size, they don’t do well in hot weather because of their flat face. Cool, well-ventilated places are important for keeping this small dog breed cool during the summer.

10. Saint Bernard

Originally from the Swiss Alps, Saint Bernards were bred for cold-weather rescue work. Thanks to the thick coat that protects them in the mountain snow, Saint Bernards can struggle in hot & humid climates. Offer them fresh water & use cooling mats & fans to help lower their body temperature.

https://www.petmd.com/dog/general-health/dog-breeds-that-cant-tolerate-summer-heat?utm_source=NewsletterSubscribers&utm_medium=Email&utm_content=New

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August 5/2026

                              

Heat Stress in Horses: Recognizing Symptoms & When It’s Too Hot to Ride

By Jennifer Rice, DVM, CVSMT. 

Reviewed by Courtnee Morton, DVM, CVA, CVC

Updated Jul. 25/2025

Just as excessive heat can be dangerous for humans, the same is true for our equine companions. Hot weather, heavy workloads, & limited access to cooling measures can all affect a horse & put them at risk for heat stress & stroke.

It’s important to learn the signs of heat stress in horses & how to keep them cool, as well as how to calculate when it’s just too hot to ride.

What Is Heat Stress & Heat Stroke in Horses?

Heat stress & heat stroke in horses are equine emergencies that are most commonly observed in the summer months when the temperature & humidity outside are at their highest.

Horses naturally produce heat in 2 normal metabolic functions: digestion & exercise. Heat stress occurs when there is a breakdown in the way a horse normally cools down & sweat cannot evaporate & allow for proper cooling.

If left untreated, heat stress can lead to heat stroke, during which a horse’s body temperature rises above 105–106 F, which can be life-threatening in horses.

Symptoms of Heat Stress

A horse who is experiencing heat stress may exhibit one or more of the following signs:

- Profuse sweating or less sweating than expected

- Hot skin to the touch

- Rapid breathing

- Rapid heart rate or pulse that does not improve with rest from exercise

- Increased body temperature of above 102 F

- Muscle weakness

- Stumbling

- Dehydration

- Tacky mucous membranes

- Sunken eyes

- Lack of skin elasticity or tent when you pull up from the body

- Lack of urination

Symptoms of Equine Heat Stroke

Heat stress can quickly turn into heat stroke. Symptoms of heat stroke include:

- Rapid respiratory rate continues

- Increased body temperature of over 105–106 F

- Collapse

- Convulsion

Causes of Heat Stress & Heat Stroke in Horses

There are several factors & conditions that can lead to heat stress in horses.

These conditions include:

- High outside temperature

- High environmental humidity

- Poor barn ventilation

- Prolonged exposure to sunlight

- Excessive work

- Transportation

- Obesity

The most common scenario for a horse to become heat stressed is if they are exercised when the conditions outside are hot & humid. Under these conditions, evaporation from sweat is greatly reduced & heat stress leading to heat stroke are much more likely to occur.

When Is It Too Hot to Ride a Horse?

Every horse tolerates heat differently, but there are some general guidelines to when it’s just too hot to ride.

In the heat of summer, it is best to ride in the mornings & evenings instead of the heat of the day. It is also important to allow adequate time for a horse to acclimate to hotter weather if they are new to the environment.

Additional factors that can make a horse more prone to heat stress include:

- Dehydration

- Loss of electrolytes from sweat

- Geriatric horses

- Horses with anhidrosis (unable to sweat normally)

How Veterinarians Diagnose Heat Stress & Heat Stroke in Horses

Your veterinarian will start with a history & physical exam in order to diagnose heat stress & heat stroke in your horse.

During the exam, it will be important for the veterinarian to look at the horse's mucus membranes for color & moisture, check the heart & respiratory rate, & check body temperature.

A horse that shows an elevated temperature of over 102 may be experiencing heat stress, & horses with a temperature of over 105–106 F are diagnosed with heat stroke.

Your veterinarian may also check their hydration status & evaluate kidney health through blood work if they seem dehydrated.

Treatment of Heat Stress & Heat Stroke in Horses

Treatment of heat stress & stroke in horses will depend on the severity of your horse’s symptoms. If you suspect your horse is experiencing heat stress, it is critical to stop all exercise immediately & move your horse to a cooler setting, such as in the shade. Be sure to contact your veterinarian immediately.

While waiting for veterinary assistance, place a fan next to your horse & spray them with cool water. Allow your horse access to fresh water in small intervals until the veterinarian arrives.

Your veterinarian will likely want to give your horse some intravenous fluids & electrolytes to help cool them off as well as replenish fluid & electrolyte losses.

As a horse’s condition improves, their temperature will start to decrease, respiratory rate may return to normal, they may calm down if they were behaving stressed, & sweating will return to normal.

Recovery of Equine Heat Stress & Heat Stroke

Horses generally recover from heat stress with no lasting effects. Depending on the severity of the heat stress, your veterinarian will be able to advise you on how to safely return to your horse's normal lifestyle.

Typically, allowing rest for a day or 2 & slowly easing your horse back to exercise is advised. Electrolytes may also be recommended to help restore balance & improve your horse’s hydration.

How To Prevent Heat Stress in Horses

You can help prevent heat stress in your horse in a variety of ways:

- Provide access to fresh water

- Provide access to shade

- Reduce ride time & intensity when it is hot & humid

- Ride in the morning or evening when it is the coolest

- Ask your veterinarian about providing electrolytes in times of strenuous work & increased sweating

- Provide access to a fan if there is low to no air flow in your horse’s stall

- Consider clipping horses with long hair

- Transport horses during the cooler parts of the day

Heat Stress & Heat Stroke in Horses FAQs

How can I keep a horse cool in extreme heat?

During hot weather, only ride in the early mornings or evenings, provide shade for your horse, & give them plenty of fresh water. To encourage your horse to drink enough to stay hydrated, consider discussing an electrolyte supplement for your horse. If your horse stays in a barn or stall for parts of the day, ensuring good airflow through windows & fans is crucial.

Does heat stroke cause gas colic in horses?

Heat stress or stroke can lead to colic in horses. This is because as the horse becomes dehydrated, so do the intestines. This can lead to decreased motility, impaction, spasming of the GI tract, or even leaky gut which can lead to toxins entering the bloodstream from the intestines.

What are the long-term effects of heat stroke in horses?

In severe cases, heat stroke can lead to organ failure or death. If a horse recovers from heat stroke/stress, potential long-term effects can include neurological deficits, anhidrosis, & heat intolerance.

https://www.petmd.com/horse/emergency/heat-stress-heat-stroke-in-horses

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